Bare Root Roses

Bare root season is here and if you’re thinking of planting roses, this is the best time to do it. An article by the U.S. Botanical Garden is the source for this information on rose care and maintenance.

The History of Roses
The rose, our national flower, is the oldest cultivated ornamental plant. Throughout history roses have figured prominently in literature and art, and have been used for medicine, flavoring, and fragrance. The Romans, who were extravagant in their love for roses, are thought to have been responsible for introducing the practice of flower eating into Europe. Roses were used extensively for medicinal purposes in the 18th century. The healing properties lie in the petals of the roses and in the hips which are used to make teas and preserves. When Chinese roses were introduced to Europe they triggered an increase number of hybrids throughout the 19th century. Despite the common use of new hybrids gardens today, there is a revival of interest in wild roses and old hybrids due to their unique form, fragrance, fruit and habit. In addition, many of the new shrub roses have been bred to possess the special qualities of old roses, including resistance to insects and disease.

Purchasing Roses and Preparing to Plant
When planting roses, it is important to start out with good plants. When your roses arrive, immediate care must be taken. Submerge plants in luke warm water for 1-6 hours, then plant as soon as possible.

Selecting a location
The next step toward having beautiful roses is selecting a proper location. Keep the following factors in mind when looking for a location to plant roses:

Soil — Roses are tolerant of many soils, but require soil which supplies adequate nutrients for optimum growth. A soil analysis is recommended to determine the nutrient content, ask John, our O'Connell Landscape soil expert, about helping you perform a soil analysis.

pH — The pH level of your soil can also be determined by a soil analysis. Roses prefer a slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.5-6.8. Add dolomitic lime to raise the pH level or sulfur to lower the pH. Either application should be mixed thoroughly into the soil.

Sun — Roses need at least six hours of sunlight each day. There should be enough morning sun to dry foliage in order to minimize mildew.

Drainage — Roses need well drained soil. Wet spots are not desirable. To check drainage, dig a hole 18” deep and fill with water; it should empty within several hours.

Air Movement — Good air circulation helps dew and rain to dry quickly, thus, discouraging disease development. Too much wind, however, can damage foliage in summer and canes in winter. This can be minimized with windbreaks, buildings, or hedges.

Competition — Roses should be located away from trees and shrubs that could deprive your plants of sun and nourishment. Avoid planting under eaves or gutters, as damage may occur from falling ice or water.

Time to Plant
Planting in the early spring is best. When planting, dig a hole at least 18” in diameter and 18” deep. Your plants will be either bare root or container plants. With bare root plants, the roots must be spread over a mound made in the hole with the crown of the plant centered. With container plants, the pot should be removed carefully and if the plant is pot bound, use your hands to break apart the roots to prevent them from staying in the pot shape. Set the plant in the hole and carefully fill with soil. Press the soil to eliminate air pockets.

Pruning
Pruning involves removal of nonproductive wood, shaping, and controlling the size of your plant. A good sharp pair of pruning shears is necessary to get clean cuts. Rose bushes that flower all season on new wood receive a major pruning each spring just as vegetative buds begin to swell. Roses that bloom once a year on previous years' growth should be pruned lightly every spring and again after flowering. Make cuts at a sharp 45-65 degree angle. Ends can be painted with wood glue to prevent cane borer damage. In general, cut back about a third of the canes and prune out the center of the bush to allow for good air circulation. Cuts should be made 1/4” above an outside growing point. Remove any dead wood, diseased branches and branches growing toward the center. If two branches cross, remove the weaker one. Deadheading is done throughout the season as blooms are spent. Cut the spent blooms at the stem about 1/4” above the first or second leaf with five leaflets.

Watering
The rule of thumb for water requirements is 1” of water per week but actual frequency depends on climate and soil. If you have good drainage then you cannot over-water. Leaves must dry before evening, otherwise conditions exist that are conductive to mildew and disease.

Feeding
Established rose bushes should be fertilized right after pruning in the spring. Next, feed plants when they have developed flower buds and again 2 months before the first frost in your area. New plants should be fed after the first bloom cycle and once a month thereafter. Cease feeding two months before the first frost. Gardens with fast draining sandy soil should be fed more frequently.

Disease and Insect Problems
The most important factor concerning prevention of disease and insects is sanitation. Raking away any leaves and debris around your plants will minimize insects and disease. Healthy vigorous roses are less susceptible to pest problems. Other means of prevention include:
· buying top quality plants
· choosing disease resistant varieties
· watering in the morning
· removing diseased foliage
· treating problems immediately
There are many different controls available to choose from which include spray and dust formulas. Organic farmers encourage the use of insecticidal soaps, predacious insects and biological control. Many of the new shrub roses available are hardier and more resistant to insect and disease problems than Hybrid Tea, Grandiflora, and Floribunda roses.

If you need some ideas on what varieties to plant, give us an E-Mail. We’ll be happy to make some suggestions.